On Monday, the prestigious Hôtel Salomon de Rothschild played host to the highly anticipated Schiaparelli show, marking the grand opening of Paris’ Haute Couture Week. Daniel Roseberry, the visionary designer behind the iconic fashion house, presented a breathtaking collection that redefined the essence of Schiaparelli’s muse.
Inspired by the trailblazing spirit of Elsa Schiaparelli, Roseberry’s latest masterpiece pays homage to the founder’s innovative style and her remarkable ability to transform herself. The collection delves into Elsa’s archives, revisiting her iconic 1940s feathered silhouette, which drew inspiration from Anna Pavlova’s ‘The Dying Swan’ ballet.
The show’s opening look set the tone for a mesmerizing journey, with a silver, metallic bird’s feather design that gracefully crossed over the body, evoking a sense of protection and strength. This motif was skillfully woven throughout the collection, with deep-V tops adorned with extravagant quills and blazers featuring bird-like lapels and sleeves.
Roseberry’s surrealist vision was further accentuated by opulent gowns with voluminous, round shoulders and strapless iterations featuring orb decals. Metallic details in gold and silver added a touch of luxury, while zebra-printed capes and sheer bodices with three-dimensional horns injected a sense of animalistic allure.
Archival shoes from 1938 inspired the chest constructions on elegant dresses and the contours of headpieces, seamlessly blending the past with the present. Elsa’s classic keyhole motif was reimagined as a teardrop cut-out on a crystal-covered gown, while her undeniable sophistication influenced bright satin pieces with fanning tulle.
The pièce de résistance was the final look – a nude corset adorned with dark gems and a shiny black skirt – a testament to the sentiment that “people don’t buy Schiaparelli, they collect it.” With this collection, Daniel Roseberry cements his position as the king of high-fashion week, and Schiaparelli solidifies its status as a luxury fashion powerhouse.
